Gavin Smith

"We are not a denim store" - this was a key thought we had at the beginning of NoKipple, we did not want to be pigeon-holed as purely a denim store as we want to work with people who make all manner of quality things, but it would be remiss of us to ignore our roots and the core of our market…especially as it is so damned interesting.

Our belief is that the denims produced by our brands are some of the most unique in the market. Much of the time we would love to be able to put a pair of jeans in peoples hands to feel and experience as it can be hard to convey this purely through words and pictures what makes them so special. With so much written and seen, it can quickly become white noise for potential customers who, in a pinch, will probably fall back to the brands who are already established in the market rather then take a chance on something new. Nevertheless, we thought it worth while to present a guide to our denims along with some personal thoughts and insights into what we like and why we like it.

We begin with Trophy Clothing.

The signature denim from Trophy is their Dirt Denim, named so because of it's uneven texture and steep colour variation conjuring up similarities of the surface of an old asphalt road surface, the bikers "Dirt". Dirt denim is a low tension woven 14.5oz denim, rich in slubs, runs, hair and texture; it gives up its first indigo easily before stubbornly holding onto a unique hew somewhere between electric blue and murky grey. It fades with contrast and shapes to the wearer whilst taking a long time to settle into the perfect shape of a long term wear companion. The hardware is all brass, the hem has a chain stitch run off and the patch is deer skin.

 

Dirt Denim comes in two cuts, regular straight and narrow, the regular straight cut is based after the jeans popularised by the rebel bikers of the 1950's, the narrow cut is more contemporary and equally at home in the bar as it is in the saddle.

Trophy Clothing's Garage Denim is a true speciality denim, and something of a magic trick. Trophy are one of a select few Japanese manufacturers who still use "kibata" or loom state denim to make jeans, in this case it is a hard, flat denim of almost completely uniform colour until you add water that is. The magic of Garage Denim is that it comes to life after the first hot soak or wash, gone is the calm surface to be replaced by crashing waves of texture and subtle yet stunning range of indigos for every palette. What you have now is a 15oz denim of immeasurable character and unique charm, with the potential to yield a stunning vintage fade pattern.

 

Garage Denim is straight cut with all brass hardware, a chain stitch run off hem and a vintage Talon zipper, a jean of real contrast, a hard and uncompromising yet extremely comfortable everyday denim.

The black sheep of the Trophy family of denims is the Blackie denim, which is a result of taking the signature Dirt Denim and dyeing the warp with a furtive pigment, sulphur based deep black and the weft with an extremely dark (almost black) brown cast dye. The result is a denim of reduced runs and texture, a more regular feel and a colour which will take on shades of black, brown and grey to varying degrees through its life span.

Blackie Denim is straight cut with all brass hardware, a shiny black leather patch, black stitching and run off.